pool players guide to bangkok & asia

buying a pool cue: the pros and cons
chuck's day around the traps

pool-side with Chuck: a typical day on the tables

Being a creature of habit(s), nearly all of them bad, I have a bit of a routine that I generally follow in search of a good game and good company in Sukhumvit's pool halls and bars.

We'll get into detail about that in a moment, but first I want to broach the subject of pool cues:

buying a pool cue: the pros and cons

For anyone who takes more than a passing interest in the game of pool, it will become immediately obvious that it is a game of variables. Unless you play on the same table with the same opponents all the time, nothing will be constant. The tables are all different (even in size and colour for some reason I'm not really keen on blue tables), the lighting is different, the ambiance of each venue is unique, and the skills and gamesmanship of your opponents will vary vastly.

There is one key aspect of the game that you can take control of however, and that is the cue that you play with. The house cues range from abominable (virtually any beer bar with a pool table) to excellent (a top level pro venue like "Ball In Hand" on Sukhumvit). The main advantage of playing with your own cue is simply consistency - the cue is straight and true, the tip will be in top nick, and the length and weight will be perfectly suited to your style. You can blame lots of things for a bad performance, but you won't be able to blame the cue.

The downsides are basically two-fold. First, there's the obvious problem of being instantly branded a wanker when you walk in with your own cue in a case, and the general assumption on the part of incumbent crowd that you're either an ace player or at least fancy yourself as one. Secondly, you've got to carry it around with you if you're living in Bangkok and prefer to travel by car you can always just duck around the corner and grab it when needed (or, better still, phone your manservant and ask him to bring it in for you), but if you're a visitor or just prefer to travel by Skytrain (like me) there's always the chance that in the alcoholic haze of the later evening you'll leave it in a corner or take your eyes off it for a moment and have it stolen.

My advice is that if you want to improve your game and your enjoyment of it (and trust me, the occasional win will make it more pleasurable), play with your own cue. I get around the downsides by having enough friends amongst the bar managers to be able to safely leave my cue at a number of different spots around town and retrieve it next time I'm out to play.

ball in hand pool

On buying a cue, I'd suggest just trying a selection of different cues over a period of time in a proper pro-level hall like Ball in Hand, or perhaps just ask other players to try their cues out. (Or you could just "steal your daddy's cue and make a livin' out of playing pool", as per Rod Stewart's "Maggie May".) Make sure you know what you're playing with, especially the weights.

Pool cues vary in price from three or four thousand baht to as much as you want to pay. You probably want to be looking at the lower end if you're just starting to get into the game. Weight is a big factor - in fact, the real pros have a selection of cues of different weights. I cheat a bit, I use a cue that was hand-made in Canada and the weight can be adjusted by adding/subtracting slugs of lead in the handle. Most of the time I don't bother, but if I'm playing with better players I'll either add the weights or pick up a heavier cue for the break - when you're playing against top level players you really need to be able to sink balls off the break.

So the bottom line is, if you're serious about playing better pool think about buying a cue. As I said, if you lose the one thing you won't be able to blame is the cue, so you can concentrate on other aspects of your game.


chuck's day around the traps

The earlier part of my day generally follows a pretty set routine. I like to start at New Wave in Soi 7 for numerous reasons. I can pretty much fall out of the station at Nana and land in the bar without taxing my usually delicate physical condition at the start of the day (noon). The female regulars have become good friends over the years, and I like the seedy atmosphere. When I first started going there the bar staff couldn't mix a decent Bloody Mary to save their lives, so we've since got into the habit of the staff just bringing all the ingredients over to me and I make my own.

Despite sporadic efforts to upgrade and maintain the tables in New Wave, at best they can only be described as average. On a busy night a lot of people play on these tables, and they take a lot of punishment. But for a start-of-the-day session they're fine, and I have a bit of a chat and laugh with my fellow players about their success (both on and off the tables) the night before. I should add that some of these ladies are fine players, with a great eye but a tendency to generally hit the cue ball a bit hard - it doesn't matter how casual they look, but if they get the slightest sniff of a chance to take some money off a nerd they'll jump at it. It's sometimes fun to just sit back with a drink or twelve and watch them work.

After a casual warm-up, it's getting close to lunch time. Sometimes I'll walk up to "Bus Stop" -just past the Nana Hotel in Soi 4, it's not a pool venue, but a beer bar/restaurant in a garden setting that serves decent cheap food (both Thai and farang), sports on TV and people-watching to indulge in while you're there.

Alternatively, I'll duck into the alleyway straight across the street from New Wave which takes me up to Gullivers in Soi 5. The alley itself is quite interesting - it caters to all the "ee-sarn" girls from the northeast, with little stalls selling all fish-guts and lizards-gonads specialties from their part of the world. I'm sure it's all wonderful if you're into that sort of thing!

gullivers

Pretty much everybody knows Gullivers. I's big, it's glitzy, it's Western, and there's something in there for everybody. Sports on the screens, a big bar with an even bigger 50's yank-tank suspended on a pole above it, a big menu of deep-fried white fellas food and a surprisingly well executed range of standard Thai dishes, and an even bigger menu of freelance girls that builds up through the day. I never really liked the place when it first opened (5 years ago?), not sleazy enough for me, but I've since discovered that's each corner of this huge establishment has a character of its own, with its own group of regulars and generally the same staff that get to know you.

As a pool venue it's pretty good. The tables are OK but not great, the house cues are the same (better than your average bar). There are a group of tables right behind the main bar - these are pretty well organised by the attending staff, write your name on the board and they'll let you know when you're up to play. Winner stays on the table to play the next challenger. You will see the occasional good player on these tables, but it's more of a singles venue, with a large number of the players being of the tall, leggy female variety, using the proximity to the main bar to keep a close eye on punters walking through the front door.

Wander further down the back and the pool gets more serious. I usually meet a retired French gentleman here, he and I both discovered this place pretty soon after it first opened, and have been fine-tuning our games against each other on a regular basis ever since. In the early afternoons it's usually possible just to stay on one table without being interrupted for at least a couple of hours. Mon ami francaise and I are incredibly evenly matched and after quite a few years we still can't say that one of us is conclusively better than the other. The staff are friendly and helpful and seem to like watching our protracted grudge matches. Some of the other regulars down the back are excellent players, and I've learned lots about the game by playing them. Once again, don't be fooled by the big Thai smiles - there are some deadly opponents in there. (There are a couple of notable players in there that take less time to set up a shot than I've ever seen anywhere else, they take about three nanoseconds to line up a shot and sink it.) About 4:00 - 5:00pm blokes from the local office buildings and the tourists start wandering in, so the tables revert to the Winner/Challenger format, efficiently managed by the staff. I'll sometimes hang in there for a few games, but it's generally at that point that I'll make an exit and head for somewhere else.

It's about this time if day, when the sun's going down, that I'll usually go on a little Exploration Tour. When I first moved to Bangkok I noticed that many (most?) tourists would poke their heads into the door of a bar, have a quick squiz, and make an instant assessment on whether the bar was good or bad. In many cases, they made the wrong assessment - back in a dark corner was the beautiful Thai maiden they'd been waiting to meet all their life, and they turned their back on her and went home to live with some horrible Whisky Tango witch in Manchester. In order to avoid the same fate, I decided that I'd always stay for at least a couple of drinks to check the place out properly, and I continue that tradition to this day with pool venues.

There is so much change in the night entertainment scene in Bangkok that pool joints open, close and change hands with unbelievable regularity. So on my evening wanders I try to visit at least a couple of places that I've either never been to before, or that I haven't been into for some time. Generally the places that come and go are smaller and not particularly professional as a pool venue, but they are friendly and can often be just great fun. You could never name or rate all the bars and beer joints that have one or more tables, but you'll always make a few new buddies by buying a few drinks and playing a couple of games of pool there. There's no telling what kind of experience you'll have on a given evening at the Swan Bar in Soi 6 or the Soi 8 Bar (strangely enough, in Soi 8), but with the right crowd and with enough alcoholic lubricant it could be the best night of your life.

hillary bar

Hillary Bar 2 in Soi Nana is a favourite drop-in venue. This location (across the street from Bus Stop) struggled as a restaurant before settling on a format of pool tables and live music, with about half a dozen decent tables on two floors. The Big Mango is about a one minute stagger away on the second floor of the Nana Plaza complex - three good tables and decent music if you buy the DJ a drink!

If you really want to wander back in time, poke your head into Country Road on the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 19. (It won't be a complete waste of time, Soi Cowboy is only two minutes away.) In the Vietnam war era one of the stalwart clubs was the Joker Club which sat where the hotel fountain now is on the opposite corner of Soi 19. Country Road seems to have faithfully carried on the tradition of distorted country-rock music and patchy pool tables. It can be noisy and rough, but as long as you're not looking for the ultimate pool venue it can be lots of fun. The similarly named pool hall actually located at the Soi Asoke end of Cowboy itself is once again not the greatest quality, but it is handy if you want to adjourn from the hassles and noise of the go-go bars for a game of pool with the "ti-lac"of your choosing.

Absolute 7 is another of my drop-in haunts, always worth a look in Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 (actually, a separate small soi a little further down from the main Soi 7, and mainly known as being the home of the infamous Club Eden about which we will say no more on this healthy sports-oriented website). Once again, a bit hit and miss in terms of what kind of evening you'll have, but great when there's a crowd who are ready to party.

Like many of the business people who have lived in Bangkok for years (and unlike most tourists, rather happily), I quite like to spend some time in Soi 33, down towards the Emporium Mall. There are a couple of tables in The Londoner, the pub on the corner - the pub's busy, it usually has good music, brews its own beer, etc. Can be fun. Further up 33 a number of bars have one or more tables. It has to be said that these are not really serious pool venues, but the tables are a means to an end. Or something. Lookie Lookie down one of the side lanes is innocent enough, a decent place to drink and a small but workable table. The Vincent Van Gogh bar has a table in a separate room above the bar, I've been in some terrible trouble up there but once again it would be inappropriate to elaborate on this site. Let's put it this way, if you do end up in Soi 33 for whatever reason, it is possible to play some pool while you're down there, as they say.

Enough of unstructured exploration. By all means check out as many pool venues as you can!- you just never know what you might find. But, if you're a keen pool player, there will come a time when you're ready to get serious. And, right now, for me that means Ball In Hand in the basement of the Times Square building down near Asoke (they also have another venue in Nana).

express pisser

It would be appropriate at this point to say that I was always a big fan of the late, great Brunswick Bar. Not as big or as slick as Ball In Hand, but I cut my pool-playing teeth there so it will always remain a fond memory. But what Ball In Hand lacks in memories it more than makes up for in top quality tables and gear, superb organization, and just plain everything you need to not only enjoy a great game of pool but also to learn how to improve your game.

Tables are top quality and impeccably maintained as they should be, because they are regularly used for tournament play. (Another tip: don't be afraid to enter tournaments. They are generally graded or handicapped in some way, and playing against people are better than you are is the only way you'll improve your game.)

This is emphatically not a pick-up joint, unlike most of the other pool joints around town. The emphasis is very much on the game. I'm quite happy to sit and have a drink and watch the games in progress. You can play the usual "Challenge the Incumbent" game ( the current rate is still around 25 baht a game), or rent the tables by the hour. The knowledgeable attendants will rack the balls up (as they do in most pool establishments in Thailand), hand you any special equipment you may need to play your shot, and (of course) fetch drinks as required. I've looked for similar establishments in a number of cities around the world, and I can't really think of any that provide the same mixture of quality, friendliness, professionalism and ambiance, all at what by real world standards are very reasonable prices. If you think that sounds a bit over the top as a recommendation, all I can say is go check it out for yourself. And I certainly would like to hear your suggestions as to where else in the world I can find that combination.

My usual form is to go in there with a friend to enjoy a couple of games with, but inevitably I will run into other people that I know, and be introduced to other players, so a session there is brilliant for your game, whether it's just watching or playing.

The only vaguely negative thing I can say about this venue is that it takes a hell of a lot more concentration, and there is a certain amount of pressure to put in a decent performance. So after a couple of hours and with time marching on, it's usually time to put the serious play aside and head back to some of the more frivolous alternatives (see above) to wind down with a couple of low-key games and big dose of medicinal bourbon and blues to knock me out for the evening... so that I can get up and do it all again tomorrow!

- Chuck Wao

tuk tuk